On the one hand, Gilhooley’s (about an hour’s drive from Houston) is just what you’d expect to find in a speck of a Gulf Coast fishing town. Fashioned out of weathered wood, with a rusty boxcar parked out front, this seafood dive is proudly unpolished, like many of its regulars, who start drinking icy longnecks at 11 a.m. and have no problem with the strict “no kids, no pets, cash only” policy. But then you start in on the Oysters Gilhooley—each simmering in its own pool of butter, garlic, and Parm after being roasted over a pecan-and-oak fire—and you realize that the best bivalves in the country are being served in a no-bullshit shack on a road you’d otherwise never travel down. —Jordan Breal
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